fullcount · japanese denim · osaka five · raw denim · selvedge ·Jun 03, 2026

Fullcount Jeans Review: The Osaka Five Brand That Pioneered Zimbabwe Cotton Selvedge (2026)

Q: Why does Fullcount use Zimbabwe cotton?

Founder Mikiharu Tsujita chose Zimbabwe cotton for its long, hand-picked staple fibers, which produce denim that is softer and stronger than typical cotton, giving Fullcount its comfortable break-in.

Q: How much do Fullcount jeans cost?

Most core Fullcount models retail between $290 and $350 USD, which is mid-range for premium Japanese selvedge denim.

Q: How should I size Fullcount jeans?

Fullcount denim is sanforized, so it shrinks only slightly. Most buyers take their true waist or size down one for a snug fit, and should check each model's measurements because vintage cuts run differently than modern jeans.

Q: How long does it take to break in Fullcount jeans?

Thanks to the softer 13.7 oz Zimbabwe-cotton cloth, Fullcount breaks in within a few weeks of regular wear, faster than 18 oz heavyweight Japanese denim, with clear fades after three to four months.

Q: Is Fullcount better than Momotaro or Iron Heart?

It depends on preference. Fullcount prioritizes comfort, softness, and vintage authenticity, while Momotaro and Iron Heart specialize in heavier, more rugged denim. For everyday wearability Fullcount wins; for maximum heft the heavyweight brands lead.

Fullcount is the Osaka-based denim brand that pioneered the use of premium Zimbabwe cotton in selvedge jeans, producing some of the softest, most comfortable raw denim ever woven on a vintage shuttle loom. Founded in 1992 by Mikiharu Tsujita, Fullcount is one of the legendary “Osaka Five” brands that built the entire Japanese repro-denim movement. If you want vintage-inspired Levi’s 501-style jeans with a famously gentle hand-feel and slow, painterly indigo fades, Fullcount belongs at the top of your list.

What Is Fullcount?

Fullcount is a Japanese heritage denim label headquartered in Osaka, the spiritual home of Japan’s selvedge industry. The brand specializes in faithful reproductions of mid-century American workwear — particularly the 1940s and 1950s Levi’s blue jean silhouette — reinterpreted with obsessive Japanese craftsmanship. Every pair is cut and sewn in Japan and woven on narrow vintage shuttle looms that produce the self-finished “selvedge” edge prized by denim enthusiasts.

What separates Fullcount from nearly every competitor is its cotton. In the early 1990s, founder Mikiharu Tsujita made the then-radical decision to weave his denim almost entirely from Zimbabwe cotton, a long, hand-picked staple fiber known for exceptional softness and strength. The result is a raw denim that breaks in faster and feels less punishing than the rugged Okayama heavyweights, while still fading beautifully. At Japan-Denim.com, we consistently recommend Fullcount to first-time raw denim buyers who want the selvedge experience without a brutal break-in.

History and Background

Fullcount was founded in 1992 by Mikiharu Tsujita, a former staffer at the influential Osaka vintage retailer Lapine. Tsujita was part of a small circle of Osaka denim obsessives who, in the late 1980s and early 1990s, set out to recreate the vintage American jeans they collected — garments that the original American mills had long stopped making. That circle became known as the Osaka Five: Studio D’Artisan, Denime, Evisu, Warehouse & Co., and Fullcount.

Tsujita’s contribution was distinctive. Rather than chase the heaviest, roughest fabric, he pursued comfort and authenticity of feel. His use of Zimbabwe cotton and his signature 13.7 oz denim gave Fullcount a reputation for being the “wearable” Osaka brand — jeans you could actually live in every day. Over three decades, Fullcount has remained relatively small and artisanal, never chasing mass production, which is exactly why collectors in the US, Canada, and Europe still seek it out today.

Deep Dive: Why Fullcount Matters

To understand Fullcount, you have to understand its fabric philosophy. The brand’s flagship cloth is a 13.7 oz Zimbabwe-cotton selvedge denim — mid-weight by Japanese standards. Heavier Okayama denim from brands like Iron Heart or Samurai can run 18–21 oz and feels like cardboard for the first month. Fullcount’s 13.7 oz cloth, by contrast, is supple almost from day one, yet it still develops the high-contrast vertical fades (“tate-ochi”) and honeycombs that denim heads chase.

The indigo dyeing is equally considered. Fullcount uses traditional rope-dyeing, where yarns are dipped repeatedly in indigo vats so the dye coats only the outer layer of each thread, leaving a white core. As the jeans wear, that white core is revealed, creating the bright, electric fade lines that make Japanese denim so collectible. Combined with the softer Zimbabwe fiber, Fullcount fades tend to look slightly softer and more painterly than the stark, aggressive fades of heavyweight loomstate denim.

Construction is pure vintage repro: hidden rivets, chain-stitched hems and waistbands sewn on vintage Union Special machines, button flies, and period-correct hardware. These details are not marketing — the chain-stitch run-off is what produces the desirable roping effect on the hem over time. At Japan-Denim.com, we view Fullcount as the benchmark for “comfortable repro”: as authentic as anything from Osaka, but built to be worn rather than admired in a drawer.

How Japanese selvedge denim is made — Zimbabwe cotton, rope dyeing, and vintage shuttle loom weaving process behind Fullcount jeans — The Japanese selvedge process behind Fullcount: long-staple Zimbabwe cotton, rope-dyed indigo, and weaving on narrow vintage shuttle looms.

Best Options: Our Top Picks

Fullcount keeps a focused lineup of core fits that have barely changed in 30 years. Here are the models we recommend most for US and Canadian buyers.

Fullcount 1101 (Slim Straight)

Best for: First-time raw denim buyers who want a versatile, modern-leaning vintage fit.
Key specs: 13.7 oz Zimbabwe-cotton selvedge, rope-dyed indigo, slim-straight leg, button fly, hidden rivets.
Price range: $290–$340 USD.
Why we recommend it: The 1101 is Fullcount’s signature fit and the easiest entry point — trim enough to look contemporary, but cut from the brand’s soft flagship cloth so the break-in is gentle.

Fullcount 1108 (Wide Straight)

Best for: Fans of a relaxed, true 1940s silhouette and high-rise comfort.
Key specs: 13.7 oz Zimbabwe selvedge, high rise, wide-straight leg, period-correct hardware.
Price range: $300–$350 USD.
Why we recommend it: The 1108 nails the vintage workwear look that’s back in fashion, with room through the thigh and a roomy leg that drapes well over boots.

Fullcount 0105 (Regular Straight)

Best for: Buyers who want the classic Levi’s 501 mid-century cut in Fullcount cloth.
Key specs: 13.7 oz Zimbabwe selvedge, regular-straight leg, mid rise, button fly.
Price range: $290–$340 USD.
Why we recommend it: The 0105 is the most timeless fit in the range — not slim, not baggy — and ages into the kind of all-purpose fades you can wear for a decade.

Model	Fit	Weight	Rise	Best For
1101	Slim Straight	13.7 oz	Mid	Beginners
1108	Wide Straight	13.7 oz	High	Vintage look
0105	Regular Straight	13.7 oz	Mid	All-purpose

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is Fullcount denim good quality?
A: Yes. Fullcount is one of the original Osaka Five brands and is widely regarded as a benchmark for vintage-reproduction selvedge denim. Its jeans are cut and sewn in Japan from premium Zimbabwe cotton woven on vintage shuttle looms, with chain-stitched construction and period-correct hardware.

Q: Why does Fullcount use Zimbabwe cotton?
A: Founder Mikiharu Tsujita chose Zimbabwe cotton in the early 1990s for its long, hand-picked staple fibers, which produce denim that is softer and stronger than typical cotton. It is the main reason Fullcount jeans feel more comfortable during break-in than heavyweight Japanese denim.

Q: How much do Fullcount jeans cost?
A: Most core Fullcount models retail between $290 and $350 USD. This is mid-range for premium Japanese selvedge — less than heavyweight specialists like Iron Heart, but more than entry-level Japanese repro brands.

Q: How should I size Fullcount jeans?
A: Fullcount denim is sanforized (pre-shrunk), so it shrinks only slightly. Most buyers take their true waist size or size down one if they prefer a snug fit that stretches to comfort. Always check the specific model’s measurements, as vintage cuts run differently than modern jeans.

Q: How long does it take to break in Fullcount jeans?
A: Because of the softer 13.7 oz Zimbabwe-cotton cloth, Fullcount breaks in faster than most Japanese denim — typically a few weeks of regular wear versus a month or more for 18 oz+ heavyweights. Fades start showing clearly after about three to four months of consistent wear.

Q: Is Fullcount better than Momotaro or Iron Heart?
A: It depends on what you want. Fullcount prioritizes comfort, softness, and vintage authenticity, while Momotaro and Iron Heart specialize in heavier, rougher, more rugged denim. For everyday wearability and a gentle break-in, Fullcount wins; for maximum heft and durability, the heavyweight brands lead.

The Bottom Line

Fullcount is the Osaka Five brand for people who actually want to wear their raw denim every day. Its premium Zimbabwe-cotton cloth delivers the full selvedge experience — rope-dyed indigo, vintage shuttle-loom weaving, chain-stitched construction, and stunning slow fades — without the cardboard-stiff break-in that scares off newcomers. For US and Canadian buyers looking for their first serious pair of Japanese jeans, or for collectors who want a softer counterpoint to their heavyweight rotation, Fullcount is one of the smartest buys in all of Japanese denim.

At Japan-Denim.com, we curate authentic Japanese selvedge from Osaka, Okayama, and beyond, shipped to the US and Canada. Explore our guides to find the brand, fit, and weight that fits your wardrobe — and start a pair of jeans that will only get better with every wear.